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Echeveria Carnicolour in the GardenTags plant encyclopedia

Echeveria Carnicolour

 

Echeveria 'Carnicolour'

http://www.crassulaceae.ch/de/artikel?akID=48&aaID=2&aiID=C&aID=1100 ynonym : Cotyledon carnicolor Baker (1870) Series Racemosae Type : Not designated. Lectotype : Saunders Refugium Botanicum 3: plate 199. 1870. Etymology : Lat. carnicolor = flesh-coloured, referring to the colour of the leaves, not to the colour of the flowers. Distribution : Mexico (Veracruz). First Description as Cotyledon carnicolor by Baker in Saunders Refugium Botanicum 3: 199.1870: Quite stemless and glabrous. Leaves about twenty in a dense rosette, thicker in texture than the average of the section, oblanceolate-spathulate, the outer ones two inches long by three-quarters of an inch broad half-way up, acute, the ... three-eighths of an inch broad just above the base, the face concave, the colour a pale glaucous-green with a decided reddish tinge, the papillae more distinct than in any other species. [Flowering] stems two or three from the crown of the root, arcuately ascending, not more than half a foot high including the raceme, densely leafy. Racemes six- to twelve-flowered, fifteen to eighteen lines broad, not more than an inch and a half to two inches long when fully expanded. Bracts linear, the lowest nearly as long as the pedicel, the upper much shorter. Pedicels erecto-patent, three to four lines long. Flowers : Sepals lanceolate, subequal, subpatent, two lines deep. Corolla bright red when mature, distinctly pentagonal, half an inch deep, the divisons lanceolate, the outer stamens inserted near the base of the corolla. Note : 1. The origin of the plant Baker used for his description in 1870 was not known, it was believed to come from Mexico. It was only in 1906 that Purpus found it in the Barranca de Tenampa, Veracruz, Mexico. 2. In Echeveria, p. 1972, Walther published his own description of Echeveria carnicolor. Though he declared that the plant from which it was made is traceable to Dr. Rose, it evidently did not correspond well to the type plant - the leaves were "cress-green tinged drab", i.e. they were by no means flesh-coloured. In order to comply with the specific epithet "carnicolor" he therefore concluded that - in contradiction to the protologue - this was meant to refer to the flower colour and consequently described the flowers partly as flesh-coloured - again in contradiction to the red corolla of the First Description. As already stated above, the adjective carnicolor = flesh-coloured does not refer to the flower colour, it refers to the colour of the leaves. Walther's description is to be ignored. 3. According to David Jimeno, plants in the wild are never greyish or bluish-grey like the plants in our collections. The origin of the greyish plants is unknown.

Contributed by @gardentagssucculentexpert

 
plant Features
  • Echeveria Carnicolour likes full sun to partial shade

    Full sun to partial shade

  • Echeveria Carnicolour likes occasional watering

    Occasional watering

  • Echeveria Carnicolour is a little frost hardy: 32f (0°c)

    A little frost hardy: 32F (0°C)

  • Echeveria Carnicolour likes free draining and fertile

    Free draining and fertile

 
plant information

Common name

Echeveria 'Carnicolour'

Latin name

Echeveria Carnicolour

type

Succulent

family

Crassulaceae

ph

5.5 - 6.0 Acid - Neutral

  • Light

    Echeveria Carnicolour likes full sun to partial shade

    Full sun to partial shade

  • Frost

    Echeveria Carnicolour is a little frost hardy: 32f (0°c)

    A little frost hardy: 32F (0°C)

  • Soil

    Echeveria Carnicolour likes free draining and fertile

    Free draining and fertile

  • Water

    Echeveria Carnicolour likes occasional watering

    Occasional watering

Plant & bloom calendar

  •  
    Best time to plant
  •  
    When the plant will bloom

full grown dimensions

The size of a fully grown Echeveria Carnicolour is 0.15meters x 0.10meters 0.15 M 0.10 M

Echeveria Carnicolour

http://www.crassulaceae.ch/de/artikel?akID=48&aaID=2&aiID=C&aID=1100 ynonym : Cotyledon carnicolor Baker (1870) Series Racemosae Type : Not designated. Lectotype : Saunders Refugium Botanicum 3: plate 199. 1870. Etymology : Lat. carnicolor = flesh-coloured, referring to the colour of the leaves, not to the colour of the flowers. Distribution : Mexico (Veracruz). First Description as Cotyledon carnicolor by Baker in Saunders Refugium Botanicum 3: 199.1870: Quite stemless and glabrous. Leaves about twenty in a dense rosette, thicker in texture than the average of the section, oblanceolate-spathulate, the outer ones two inches long by three-quarters of an inch broad half-way up, acute, the ... three-eighths of an inch broad just above the base, the face concave, the colour a pale glaucous-green with a decided reddish tinge, the papillae more distinct than in any other species. [Flowering] stems two or three from the crown of the root, arcuately ascending, not more than half a foot high including the raceme, densely leafy. Racemes six- to twelve-flowered, fifteen to eighteen lines broad, not more than an inch and a half to two inches long when fully expanded. Bracts linear, the lowest nearly as long as the pedicel, the upper much shorter. Pedicels erecto-patent, three to four lines long. Flowers : Sepals lanceolate, subequal, subpatent, two lines deep. Corolla bright red when mature, distinctly pentagonal, half an inch deep, the divisons lanceolate, the outer stamens inserted near the base of the corolla. Note : 1. The origin of the plant Baker used for his description in 1870 was not known, it was believed to come from Mexico. It was only in 1906 that Purpus found it in the Barranca de Tenampa, Veracruz, Mexico. 2. In Echeveria, p. 1972, Walther published his own description of Echeveria carnicolor. Though he declared that the plant from which it was made is traceable to Dr. Rose, it evidently did not correspond well to the type plant - the leaves were "cress-green tinged drab", i.e. they were by no means flesh-coloured. In order to comply with the specific epithet "carnicolor" he therefore concluded that - in contradiction to the protologue - this was meant to refer to the flower colour and consequently described the flowers partly as flesh-coloured - again in contradiction to the red corolla of the First Description. As already stated above, the adjective carnicolor = flesh-coloured does not refer to the flower colour, it refers to the colour of the leaves. Walther's description is to be ignored. 3. According to David Jimeno, plants in the wild are never greyish or bluish-grey like the plants in our collections. The origin of the greyish plants is unknown.


Planting

From Early Spring TO Late Winter

Echeveria can be propagated easily by separating pups, but also by leaf cuttings, and by seed. It needs a warm, sunny position with well drained soil to develop their foliage colour. It is recommended to position plants in an area where they are in part shade. This means that they should be in morning sun, or afternoon sun, or both (but shaded during the harsh midday period). Alternatively, plants may be grown under full filtered sun underneath shade cloth which is usually stocked by your local hardware store. 50% filtration is recommended to avoid sunburn but maintain great colour. You may need to test what works well in your particular climate. Most succulents will be grown in containers and pots and they will need good drainage medium. Add coarse grit such as perlite or pumice to soil and repot every year in late-spring. Don't worry about damaging the roots when re-potting as most Echeveria generally tolerate disturbance well.

 

Flowering

From Early Spring TO Late Winter

Echeveria could flower a number of times through the year. Flowering can use much of the plant’s energy, therefore it’s recommended that flower stalks are removed from sick or weaker plants until they are well established. If your plant is healthy, enjoy it’s beautiful show of blooms. Flowers on short stalks (cymes) arise from compact rosettes of succulent's fleshy, often brightly coloured leaves. Species are polycarpic, meaning that they may flower and set seed many times over the course of their lifetimes and indeed a number of times per year.

 

Propagating

From Early Spring TO Late Winter

Pluck a leaf gently from the stem taking care not to damage the leaf. It should have a u-shape if plucked correctly. Leave the leaf for a few days to callous over. Once this has happened, place the leaf on top of your propagation medium of choice with the u-shaped end downward, rest the leaf on a bamboo stick or similar at a 45 degree angle to the propagation medium. Propagation is best done in indirect light, not in direct sunlight. Alternatively, a grow light can be used. Roots should sprout in two to four weeks, followed by new tiny leaves. At this point, depending on the humidity and rainfall in your area, you may mist or lightly water your leaves as the plant grows. Resist the urge to remove the mother leaf once it becomes dried up and shrivelled. It’s best for this process to occur naturally.

 
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